What to Eat in Istanbul: A Food Guide by Meal

Turkish breakfast

Kahvaltı is a two-hour affair on a weekend: eggs, cheeses, olives, tomato, cucumber, honey, kaymak, jams, simit, tea. Van Kahvaltı Evi in Cihangir is the classic. Privato in Galata is the design-forward version.

Street food essentials

**Simit** — sesame bread ring, everywhere, €0.50. **Balık ekmek** — grilled fish sandwich at Eminönü waterfront, €3. **Midye dolma** — stuffed mussels sold from carts. Squeeze lemon. **Kokoreç** — seasoned lamb intestine sandwich. Better than it sounds.

Meze and raki

The full Turkish tavern experience. Meze by Lemon Tree in Beyoğlu is the fancy version. Any meyhane on Nevizade Sokak is the traditional one.

Kebab, done right

Skip the tourist spots on Divanyolu. Zübeyir Ocakbaşı in Beyoğlu is the flagship. Çiya Kebap in Kadıköy for regional versions.

Sweets

Baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu — walk-up counter, buy 100g of pistachio. Turkish delight at Hafız Mustafa. Künefe at Hala.

Coffee, tea, and where to have both

Turkish coffee at Mandabatmaz on İstiklal. Tea everywhere — at every corner, always brought unasked. Third-wave coffee at Karaköy's Kronotrop.

The one dish everyone misses

Manti — Turkish ravioli in yogurt and butter. Not on many tourist menus. Fatih Karadeniz Pidecisi and Beyti Restaurant both serve excellent versions.